![]() I am wondering if it IS the CMOS battery causing all the issues or if its the actual battery. So what is wrong with it? I already figure i need a new motherboard, so i dont need that as an answer. I installed the hdd and it tells me of a CMOS battery failure and the shortly after dies and gives me the two blinking lights again. If i unplug it from the wall it still thinks it has power. when battwry is connected, it goes to two amber lights and then a steady amber battery light so long as i unplug it from the jack. As long as i do not connect the hdd and battery i do not get the blinking amber lights. ![]() i started at ir again today and i had it running without hdd and battery. I disconnected everything reassembled and left it alone for a while figuring it might be the battery. So starting from scratch i did it again withoutvthe keyboard and it charged for a while and ran but died again. I disconnected everything again because it would not start up again without the two amber blinkies. I connected the keyboard and it died giving me the two amber blinkies. I connected the hard drive and it booted into windows. I connected the battery and it started charging. It still worked telling me i had no bootable device. I shut it down and connected the monitor. ![]() I connected only the power switch and jack. I understood the motherboard was prolly fried so I recently took it apart to see what would work. I thought it might be the internal power jack so i replaced that. This computer has served me well but lasy year there was a power outage and it took my computer with it. I have a Toshiba L755 laptop i bought back in 2010 brand new at Best Buy. due to low manufacturing quality, so if you DO need a Motherboard repair it's likely to cost $175-$350 or more, so it's probably money better spend toward buying a new laptop *not a Toshiba*. Satellites, the 755 model generally don't run for more than 3-4 yrs. The Tech can diagnose which part or parts are bad, and provide you with a repair estimate parts and labor of how much it will cost to get that lapop running again. This could save you up to a $110 from having to buy expensive new parts and GUESS what the problem is like you said. Since you are looking at $150-$200 to replace BOTH the AC Adapter and the Battery you might consider taking to your local Computer Pro and have him diagnose it ( especially if you don't have access to a Multimeter or knowledge on how to use one) for $30-$90. If the problem is resolved by using the new AC Adapter, and the problem returns when you plug in the battery, then the battery also got bricked by the power surge, and that will need to be replaced too. ![]() If the problem persists with the battery OUT of the laptop then your Motherboard got bricked by the power outtage surge. This is why if you test the output voltage of the Adapter, and it's bad, you can replace that first. Replacing the battery with Factory battery can be from $75-$200, as can a replacing the AC Charger. If it's higher or lower, there's a good chance it's damaged both the battery and the Motherboard. If you want to know if the AC Adapter is alright you will need access to a Multimeter and actually test the output of the AC Adapter is between 18Vdc-20Vdc. If it does, then it's an indication of another failed component in the loop, the AC Adapter or the Charging circuit on the Motherboard as you already mentioned. ![]() The first thing to check is whether the laptop will operate normally with the battery removed from the laptop. I get that a lot where I live as we get a lot of thunderstorm-electrical storms. This is true even if you have a Surge Protector between the wall and the AC Adapter, as those can and do fail. It's important to also check your AC Adapter since those are plugged directly into the main power source of your home or apartment. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |